Buying Bespoke Mens Shirts The Benefits And What To Look For

Buying Bespoke Mens Shirts The Benefits And What To Look For



Buying Bespoke Mens Shirts - The Benefits And What To Look For
Bespoke shirt tailoring is​ undergoing a​ surge of​ popularity in​ the UK as​ more men realise there are options beyond designer labels .​
Bespoke tailoring gives the opportunity to​ specify every aspect of​ how a​ shirt is​ cut, and allows the wearer to​ experience the feel and look of​ a​ perfectly fitted shirt .​
The following is​ a​ guide on what features you should expect from a​ quality bespoke made mens shirt.
Obviously, the main benefit of​ a​ bespoke shirt is​ that it​ fits the wearer perfectly; after all, the shirt has been made specifically for the wearer .​
Signs that a​ shirt is​ fitted well are:
* a​ bespoke mens shirt should not feel tight or​ appear baggy across the shoulders, chest, stomach, or​ seat .​
The cut of​ the shirt should follow the contours of​ the body, without being too close or​ restrictive a​ fit .​
a​ fabric allowance of​ about 6 inches on the chest body measurement, 5 inches on the stomach measurement, and 6 inches on the seat measurement should give good results with average body dimensions, although these allowances are variable depending on the wearer's build.
* The sleeves of​ the shirt should be long enough so that the cuffs do not move up the arm when the arms are raised above the head .​
Similarly, they should not be so long that when the arms are hanging by the side of​ the body, there is​ a​ significant excess of​ fabric on the sleeves near to​ the cuffs.
* The collar of​ the shirt should leave enough space to​ insert your thumb comfortably between the collar and the neck when buttoned, and should not feel tight or​ hang loose around the neck.
* The length of​ the shirt should be long enough so that the tails hang just below the seat when worn .​
This will ensure that the shirt does not become untucked during use.
* The cuffs of​ a​ bespoke mens shirt should be just too tight to​ slip over the hand when buttoned .​
It should be necessary to​ undo the cuffs when putting on the shirt.
Aside from the fit of​ the shirt, there are a​ number of​ other important features to​ keep an​ eye out for:
* Fabrics - a​ bespoke mens shirt should only ever be constructed from pure cotton fabric .​
Cotton affords the wearer far greater comfort than man made fibres, and give a​ classic Jermyn Street look and feel to​ a​ shirt .​
The count of​ the fabric should be as​ high as​ possible - the higher the count, the finer the fabric .​
Popular fabric weaves include poplin (a plain weave and the classic English shirting), twill (a heavier, diagonal weave), fils-a-fils (a tiny graph paper check that appears to​ be solid colour from a​ distance), and oxford (generally, the heaviest weave).
* Collars - The collar should be hand made, and can be either fused or​ unfused .​
a​ well fused collar will give a​ smooth look with no puckering, and should use cotton interfacing materials .​
Collars should have removable bones to​ keep the shape of​ the wings perfectly straight when inserted.
* Stitching - All stitching throughout the shirt should be single-needle stitching .​
This technique is​ more time-consuming than commercial methods, but gives strong seams that are significantly more pucker-resistant.
* Pattern matching - When using striped or​ patterned fabrics, pattern matching should occur wherever possible.
* Sleeve plackets - Where the sleeves meet the cuffs, traditional packets should be used .​
Highest quality shirts do not provide placket buttons as​ these are uneccessary in​ a​ well formed placket.
* Split yoke - To ensure a​ perfect fit across the shoulders, a​ split (4 piece) yoke should be used.
* Buttons - These should be cross-stitched onto the shirt by hand to​ ensure that they do not become loose over time.
* Tails - The tails of​ the shirt should be rounded and strengthened by a​ gusset.
Please visit www.curtisanddyer.co.uk for more information on mens shirts.




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